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If you are visiting or have a few days free take a look at this:

The Bridge All Saints (November 1) invite you to savor the essence of Priorat in 4 days, walking around and exploring the country in an easy rhythm, from the beginning, to the monastery of Scala Dei to the ‘encinglerada Siurana, passing the Natural Park of the Serra de Montsant. Taste the Priorat wines tasting and enjoying the company of its main protagonists, the winemakers, who will open the doors to its wineries, history and family tradition. A new experience Trekking & Wine, a perfect combination of pleasure to walk the old paths and the discovery of the Priorat wines, which have captivated the world. For 4 days and just over 60 km, see the vines grown on hills and slopes impossible slate, we endisarem in the history of the monastery of Scala Dei, Priorat wine cradle, climb the Natural Park of Sierra de Montsant imposing hidden natural treasures and we will see the …

This walk is well worth the time and the hospitality of the vinters is well known you can reach the site on http://www.elbroget.com/

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Region DO Montsant

 I have been looking at the wines in the surrounding region, and discovered a wide variety of excellent country wines which do not disgrace the tables of restaurants in New York and other cities where they can be found in.  The fact that we (my wife and I) drink them as a normal table wine made me realise how lucky we are to live in such a delicious place. So I decided to take a look at the local Cellers and found that there is a lot of history intermingled with the wines. The Spanish Civil War did not leave much untouched this side of the river Ebre, and some of the smaller vineyards are only a few years old, although owned by families who have been making wine for generations. The land here is passed down through the family so you will find parcels of small vines dotted all over the DO’s  but owned by one family. When the harvest is in full flow it is not unusual to see tractors driving for some distance along the road, trailer piled high on their way to the presses.  

One of the things we have discovered still being used by some of the local Co-operativa’s, are the concrete vats which replaced the original wooden ones in many of them. These vats can hold between 30-32 thousand ltrs of wine, some of the smaller cellers still have them, where they are used to maintain the traditional way of producing wine.  It has to be noted that most cellers are beginning to go over to the stainless steel vats, but in many area’s wines are still produced in the wooden or concrete vats as well as stainless steel ones.

 Falset

Falset Town

So I shall start with Falset which is Capital of this region and is in the unique position of having one foot in each of the wine areas, ie., the DOQ Priorat and DO Montsant, here you will find the Head Quarters and Office of the Wine Appellation Regulatory Council. Falset is an old Catalan town with a Castle that sits on a high point to the left as you enter the town.  This has been restored to how it once looked although there seems to be very little of the original stone used. However, a Castle has stood on this site since around the 12th century. 

The New By-Pass Seen From Falset Castle

The Original Main Road

 

 When we first arrived here 7 years ago,  you had to drive through the town to reach the pass along the narrow road that winds its way through the town then out and upwards to the mountains. This was fine for cars, but as the lorries began to get larger it became almost impossible for them to use the road, so they were directed off to one side where a gently graded side road took them around the town joinging onto the twisting mountain road. Sometimes however, you would find one  had decided to go through town, a short cut, only to find the road narrowed and although it eventually got through the effect was to block the town. So they built a brand new by-pass taking you over the mountains, so now if you want to visit Falset you just turn off. I had thought that the road would have made the town quieter but it seems to have breathed life back into it, perhaps because the people from the surrounding district can now park and enjoy the amenities in comfort.

The Co-operativa

Entering the town from the west you find the Co-operativa on the right just off the old road the lorries used to by-pass the town. As you stand looking at the Celler face on it is an impressive building, not as decorative as some, but it has its own charm, and is referred to as a ‘Cathedral of Wine’ one of many which were designed by Cesar Martinell.  

Vermouth Vats

The Vats Under the Wooden Ceiling

 

I did not know what I expected to see inside, so you can imagine my delight as I approached and saw two enormous wooden barrels that seemed to fill the space framed by the big double doors, standing like giant sentinels with a normal sized barrel sitting on the floor between them which gave an indication of their size. I am informed that these are the vats for the Vermouth (does anyone have a straw for my wife?) the wood giving the density and flavour to this wine.  

Concrete Vats Lovingly Painted

All the Vats Together

 

To either side are the concrete vats which run in lines of 10 and  2 vats wide, still in use here, with the modern stainless steel ones in the middle of the building behind the two wooden vats.  The ceiling is of carved wood and vaulted like a cathedral (hence the name) whilst out side standing either side of the doors, are two of the original wine cages used to crush the grapes, by treading one wonders?  The building was constructed in 1919 with decorative plaques on each facing wall.   

The Co-operativa ShopPart of the Old Pressing Equipment

 

Wishing to know more we wandered round to the Co-operativa shop on the main street, which sells all sorts of things from wines and olive oils to  barrels and various containers for the presentation of wine.  They suggested we paid a visit to the Tourist Information Centre which is situated in the Castle.  Here we found information about their Wine Fiesta, it is on the weekend of April30-1st May. The local Vintners set up stalls to display, sell and allow tastings of their wines, where for around 8€ you can purchase a glass with tickets which, if you can stay the course, it is possible to sample your way round the stalls. I have talked to people who have done it they will be there again this year, so will we.  

Where the Market is Held

A Typical Street

 

To reach the Castle you have to pass through Falset it’s self.  The narrow streets, quaint squares, covered walkways edged with small shops of every description, a delightful step back in time, no supermarkets in this town. With cafes where you can sit and drink in the peace of your surroundings. 

The French Connection

The Calcots a BBQ Delight

 

 It was market day when we arrived, so the square was very busy with vegetable stalls displaying locally grown produce, snails and calcots (large spring like onions which are BBQ’d and eaten with a traditional salsa), and we found a small bread shop tucked away just off the square selling deliciously warm fresh bread. 

A Quiet Square

Typical Narrow Street

 

Then on up through narrow streets, which are too narrow for cars, turning and twisting towards the top of the hill. Then suddenly we were at the top, or so we thought, on looking up, there above and to the left was our goal, the Castle, one last climb and we had arrived.  We did not realise how steep the climb had been untill just as we reached the summit the mobile rang and I gasped for air as I tried to answer,  it was some minutes before I could compose my self.

The Rebuilt Castle

The Tourist Information at the Castle

 

The Tourist Information Centre is large and spacious built into the old Castle with two very helpful smiling young ladies in attendance, so much information and in English too. There is ample parking and a spacious courtyard in front, but I am glad we walked to the castle  we would have missed so much of Falset’s character.  If you visit Falset this is a must see even if only for the views. After catching our breath we returned to the town for coffee in a small but cheerful cafe, loaded with information and talking about which cellars to visit next.  

The Wines

The wines are quite diverse, they are full-bodied and aged.  I myself prefer a Tinto wine but have to admit that the Vi Negre are not as heavy as some I have tasted.  There are actually four types of wine here, Etim Negre is a deep full-bodied red, full of flavour and depth, whereas Etim Rosat, is light, sweet, fruity and well-flavoured, the Etim Blanco (white) has a warm mellow colour, being not too dry and very flavoursome.

The  top of the range wines, Etim L’esparver made from a grape selection and fermented in French oak barrels for 20 months, is well worth the wait.  Castell de Falset is a blend of Grenache, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, aged in both French and American oak for 12 months giving the wine a sweet taste.  Etim Old Vines Grenache comes, as the name suggests,  from a blend of old vine Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, again aged in French oak barrels.  Etim Syrah is a deep concentrated wine bottled so I am informed just like the Old Vine Grenache, with no filtering. These are definatly wines of distinction, worth both the waiting for and the price.

The Tinto (a cross between the red and rosat) is to be found in other cellars.  Having said that the Co-operative does produce some fine dessert wines, and my usual reservations regarding the overly sweetness of some, was quietly plaquated by these.  

The Etim Verema Tardana Blanc, is made from the white Grenache grape to produce this sweet wine which, I have on good authority, (my wife’) could be drunk on any occasion and with almost any dish. Etim Verema Tardana Negre  is made from the red Grenache giving the sweet, subtle taste to this fine desert wine.  Lastly the Etim Verema Sobremadurada  produced from the Grenache and Carignan grapes,  is a subtle well matured wine sweet, but in my opinion, not overly so being more to my palet, but very delicious. 

All the wines are made from the Grenache grape with some being blended with a mix of Carignan, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon grape either singly or a combination of them, either way the result is excellent.

For those of you who are lucky enough to visit Falset the last day of April, 1st May do try the Wine fair, but PLEASE take a dedicated driver it is most seriously recommended and do enjoy, CHEERS.

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